Replacing old timber windows

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To learn more or opt-out, read our Cookie Policy. Ready-to-install replacement units give you high performance and good looks with a minimum of fuss. When Maddy Krauss and her husband, Paul Friedberg, first laid eyes on their Shingle-style home, they fell in love with its handcrafted turn-of-the-century construction, wide front porch, and massive entry-hall staircase. They were also delighted to find that many of the original architectural details were still intact, including wood paneling, exquisite carvings, stained-glass windows, and an ornate cast-bronze fireplace.

The windows were another story. The originals had been swapped out a decade earlier for low-quality sash kits that were drafty, ugly, and completely inappropriate for the graceful Victorian-era home, This Old House TV's fall project in Newton, Massachusetts. Because the existing window frames were sound and square, Tom could use insert replacement units—in this case, Andersen's Woodwright Insert Replacement Windows, vinyl-clad wood units fitted with energy-saving, low-e insulated glass.

These fully assembled, ready-to-install windows slip right into the existing openings. When the job was done, the house had beautiful new double-hungs that looked right, worked smoothly, and gave Maddy and Paul one more thing to love about their old house.

Here's a look at how Tom made the switch, with tips for choosing and installing replacement windows. Unlike full-frame windows, which are designed for new construction, replacement windows are made to fit into existing window openings. There are three basic types of replacement windows: sash kits, insert replacements, and full-frame units. Sash-replacement kits—what Tom found on the Newton house—give an old window frame new movable parts, including jamb liners and sash.

The liners are fastened to the side jambs of the window opening, then the sash are slipped in between. For these to work, the existing window frame must be level and square.

An insert replacement window consists of a fully assembled window in a ready-to-install secondary frame. Sometimes called a pocket window, an insert replacement slips into the existing opening and is then fastened to the old side jambs.

Because you're adding new jambs and liners, the glass area will be slightly smaller than it was before. Full-frame replacement windows are similar to inserts, except that they have a complete frame that includes head jamb, side jambs, and sill. In a period property, you will need to be sensitive when restoring frames and replacing single panes while in a modern modern home investing in timber from PVCu for instance, will naturally make a home more desirable. However, replacement windows installed after April should have Building Regulations approval.

When replacing old windows with new, there are several considerations to make relating to areas such as thermal performance, safety, ventilation and means of escape. Compliance with ventilation requirements i. Replacement windows also need to comply with requirements for ventilation, e. At least one window per floor should be large enough to allow escape from fire, too.

The minimum opening area of 0. Safety glass is required for windows where the bottom of the glazing is within mm of floor level. Minimum size requirements. As late as the s, lead-based paints were widely used so old layers might be lurking under later coats of modern gloss.

Take precautions when rubbing down as only a potential risk if lead compounds are ingested or inhaled. Soft, decaying wood, flaking paint and sticking windows are all signs of rot in timber windows.

Water penetration and pooling distorts the timber causing this particular problems; normally the result of a lack of maintenance or where corner joints have worked loose.

To test for rot, check to see if the wood is soft and spongy. A good way is to dig away with a screwdriver. If rot is present a specialist will need to be called to help. Cills are a notorious weak point. They can often be repaired by cutting the rotten face back to sound wood and then planting in a new piece of seasoned wood, using glue and non-ferrous screws.

The drip grooves on old cills can sometimes become blocked with paint; water can soak through the wall below as a result. Loose joints are another common problem. The simplest form of repair is to strengthen the corner of a window with an angle bracket made from non-corroding brass or stainless steel. The bracket can be secured in place and concealed once any decay has been cut out and filled. Alternatively, simply re-glue loose joints.

This normally requires taking the windows out and clamping the glued frames in a workbench. Old House Blog. Historic Preservation. Product Showcase. Supplier Directory. How To Advice. Besides, some old houses have beautiful windows that are well worth keeping.

And if you're looking to slash energy bills, there are more cost-effective ways than replacement windows to do it, such as adding attic and basement insulation. Choose the wrong windows, though, and replacements can detract from home value. There are two ways to replace windows. The contractor can pull off the interior and exterior trim to install a whole new window unit—and insulate all the gaps—before reinstalling the trim, the same process used during a full renovation project.

Or he can install a window insert, which is a smaller unit that fits inside the existing opening, without the need for removing the existing trim.